Sewing with Linen
Cutting and sewing linen fabric can be a bit tricky. Here’s what I learned in the process:
Pre-wash and dry the fabric. Linen has a fair amount of shrinkage and tends to ravel on cut edges. Before washing I serged the raw edges; then washed in hot water & dried in a hot dryer. I’d rather have shrinkage before cutting and sewing .
Press the fabric well before laying out pattern pieces.
For straight cuts use a cutting mat; a straight edge and a rotary cutter for precision. For curved cuts, pin or clip the pattern well (linen tends to be a bit slippery and will shift) and use your best, sharp fabric scissors
Linen is tough fabric. It’s essential to use a sharp needle. I change needles after each new project. The universal needle size of 80/12 or 90/14 works well for most linen fabrics.
Good quality thread is important - which is true for all sewing projects. Gutermann thread has always been my favorite.
Adjust your machine(s) tension. This is particularly important for sergers.
Press seams after sewing/serging.
I experimented with seam finishes. For the market bag project I like the five thread locking serger stitch for durability. If I were making a garment with this fabric I would be likely to use my sewing machine and French seams.
Test your tension and stitches on scrap material before beginning a project.
Love these little fabric clips by Clover
The plan - this will be altered many times I’m sure.
Cutting the pattern pieces
Test stitching the five thread overlock